The Menu
(Searchlight Pictures)
By Lucas Allen
The new black comedy “The Menu” can be seen as every middle-class person’s revenge fantasy against the wealthy 1%. It’s also a uniquely interesting film to be released into theaters nationwide rather than streaming, especially in this current pop culture climate. Directed by Mark Mylod, the movie is one part horror, equal parts satire, and cooked into a delicious and exquisite meal.
A young woman named Margot (Anya Taylor-Joy) reluctantly agrees to head to a coastal island with her date, a rich man named Tyler (Nicholas Hoult) who’s also a foodie. Traveling by boat, they’re invited for a special multi-course dinner that’s headed by celebrity chef Julian Slowik (Ralph Fiennes). Other guests joining them for an expensive night include a food critic (Janet McTeer) with her editor (Paul Adelstein), a washed-up movie star (John Leguizamo) with his assistant (Aimee Carrero), an old couple (Judith Light, Reed Birney), and a trio of tech startup dudes (Rob Yang, Arturo Castro, Mark St. Cyr) being brought in by guest host Elsa (Hong Chau). Tyler cannot contain his excitement at meeting his hero, while Margot would rather be elsewhere.
As dinner begins, Slowik shows off each meal in his own unique way, much to the understated delight of his guests. But as the night wears on, the courses become weirder and deadlier. Some guests trying to leave, but to no avail. Feeling trapped, Margot has to figure out the chef’s true motive quickly before she too ends up being part of the menu.
Although it’s marketed as a horror film, it’s not entirely any type of scary movie like the kind you’ve seen this past year, or in any previous year. The story is mostly dark comedy, while it cleverly satirizes the attitudes and livelihoods of the super-rich. Each of the small group of characters introduced early on are the kind of caricatures you would normally read about or portrayed in other media, but they weren’t written as over-the-top or silly. The movie also works from the main character’s perspective, as Margot becomes the center of the mystery and the only character brave enough to try to outwit the danger.
While there are some horror moments, the film’s tonal shift between comedy and suspense remains consistent throughout with unnerving results. It’s funny to see some of the patrons oblivious to the danger surrounding them, especially Tyler’s desire for the main chef and the entrees ultimately becoming his downfall. A nice little running gag that adds to the satire is the descriptions of the courses, like we’re watching a reality competition cooking show hosted by Hannibal Lecter. Some viewers will have mixed feelings about the third act, but it does perfectly fit the main villain’s psychological mindset and the ending brings the same sense of weird satisfaction as any ending to a classic Vincent Price horror film.
Speaking of Price, Fiennes brings a cool, distasteful feel of his character with the right sense of urgent charm. His performance alongside Ethan Hawke’s in “The Black Phone” is one of the best villainous performances of the year. Taylor-Joy dazzles with sweet silliness and beauty perfectly suited to her as one of the more fearless young Hollywood actresses working today. Hoult is also hilarious playing the jerky rich boyfriend-type going through an arc that works well within the plot. The rest of the main cast shine including Leguizamo basically playing a version of himself, who’s real self-centered and as a flawed human being.
Regardless of how you feel about the ending, “The Menu” is one delicious dish served with tenderizing flavor. You don’t have to be a foodie to find yourself salivating by each course that builds to its satisfying end. Of course, you don’t have to be really rich either to enjoy something rich in taste.
THE MOVIE’S RATING: R (for strong/disturbing violent content, language throughout, and some sexual references)
THE CRITIC’S RATING: 3.5 Stars (Out of Four)